Set-in Sleeves on the Bond

I made up this sample sleeve pattern using the Knitwear Sweater Design Program.

Standard Child 20
Regular length Pullover
Set-in shoulder with Short sleeves
Scoop front neck and Round (crew) back neck with Single Band collar.
SLEEVES:
1. Cast on 30 sts in WY, using open edge method and keyplate 3. Knit 6 rows, ending COR. Change to MY.
2. Knit 4 rows even. COR.
3. Inc 1 st at each end of next row, then every following 3rd row 1 times to 34 sts (8 rows total).
4. Knit a further 4 rows even. Total 12 rows. COR.
5. Shape cap. Cast off 1 sts at beg of next two rows. Dec 1 st at each end of every row 1 times, then dec 1 st at each end of every 2nd row 9 times, then dec 1 st at each end of every row 1 times. Total 34 rows. COR. Cast off remaining 10 sts loosely.

The pattern reads as above. You need to try to reverse the shaping while staying as close a possible to the original pattern. I would translate this as the following:

(First you need to figure the total number of stitches at the top of the sleeve if knit separately. You have the 30 cast on, then you increase by 4 more, that's 34 stitches total.) Cast on the armhole opening onto 34 needles, making sure to space out any extra stitches.

(Then you need to figure how many stitches to start with in working position. Look at how many were cast off at the end in the original pattern.)Leave center 10 stitches in working position and place the rest of the needles in holding position.

(This is the hard part. Figure out how many decreases were in the original pattern and how many rows total to shape the sleeve cap. Translate that to increases by moving needles to forward working position. You may not be able to do the increases in and exact reverse of the original pattern, just try to stay as close as possible.)Knit one row, place one needle on carriage side in forward working position, two times . Knit two rows. Then place one needle on each side in forward working position every other row 10 times. Knit 4 rows even. Then place one needle on each side in forward working position every other row 1 times. Knit 4 rows even.

(This is the most important thing.)You need to make sure your increases are in about the right place and that your total rows and total stitches match the original pattern.

Try it on a baby or doll sweater first for practice. Here is a pattern to try.

Regular Length Baby Pullover

Set-in shoulder with Short sleeves
Round (crew) front neck and Flat back neck with Single Band collar.

Size:
Standard Child 20 for

YARN DESCRIPTION:
Any Worsted Weight Yarn
Warning. This is a rough estimate only. Measure a sample piece for a more accurate calculation. Amount needed:
3.6 for body and sleeves
0.8 for ribbing
0.1 for collar/hood
4.5 Ounces TOTAL

GAUGE DATA:
Gauge (stocking st over 4 in = 10 cm): 16.0 sts by 24.0 rows.

Body knitted by Bond on keyplate 3
Ribbing knitted by Bond on keyplate 3

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS: (ins): ... with Comfortable fit.
Chest: 23.0 Armhole: 10.0 Top Neck Opening: 5.4
Ribbing Width: 22.1 Ribbing Width: 7.3 Front Neck Width: 2.7

Back Width: 10.6 Sleeve Top: 9.0 Front Neck Depth: 2.0
Body Length: 12.9 Sleeve Bottom: 8.1
Ribbing Length: 1.8 Sleeve Length: 2.6
Ribbing Length: 0.8 Collar Length: 0.8
Warning. Neck opening may be too small to fit over head. Adjust neck depth, width or style. Alternatively, you may wish to knit a shoulder placket (see Finishing Instructions), instead of stitching the second shoulder seam closed.

NOTE: At most, 48 needles are required to knit the body of this garment; but the collar/hood needs 54 needles.

BACK:

1. Cast on 48 sts in WY, using open edge method and keyplate 3. Knit 6 rows, ending COR. Change to MY.
2. Knit 34 rows. COR.
3. Armhole shaping. Cast off 1 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. COR.
4. Knit a further 28 rows even. COR. Total 64 rows.
5. Shoulder shaping. Cast off 6 sts at beginning of next 4 rows. COR.
6. Total 68 rows with 22 sts remaining for back of neck. Place sts on holder.

FRONT:

1-2 Follow steps 1 and 2 as for back. COR.
3. Armhole. Dec for armhole at both ends, as for back. Continue until 56 rows total, with 46 sts remaining.
4. Shape neck. COR. Thread center 12 sts to WY. 17 sts each side.
5. Right neck. LH needles in HP. Dec 1 st at neck edge every row 5 times, until 12 sts remain. Then knit 3 row(s) even. Total 64 rows.
6. Shoulder shaping. Cast off as for back.
7. Left neck. COL. Work as for right neck, reversing shapings.

BACK AND FRONT RIBBING:

1. With wrong side of work facing, hook first row onto 48 needles, leaving every other needle in NWP. Hang hem bar.. Knit 1 row using keyplate 3.
2. Change to keyplate 3 and knit 14 rows.
3. Convert to 1x1 rib using latchet tool. Cast off loosely.

SLEEVES:

1. Cast on 36 sts in WY, using open edge method and keyplate 3. Knit 6 rows, ending COR. Change to MY.
2. Knit 5 rows even. COR.
3. Inc 1 st at each end of next row.
4. Knit a further 6 rows even. Total 12 rows. COR.
5. Shape cap. Cast off 1 sts at beg of next two rows. Very steep slope for cap sleeve. Knit 12 rows , while dec 13 sts. Total 26 rows. COR. Cast off remaining 10 sts loosely.

SLEEVE RIBBING:

1. With wrong side of work facing, hook first row onto 31 needles, (putting 2 sts onto 5 needles evenly spaced across the row, and 1 st on all other needles), and using keyplate 3 knit 1 row.Thread every other st to WY and push the empty needles into NWP. Hang hem bar.
2. Change to keyplate 3 and knit 6 rows.
3. Convert to 1x1 rib using latchet tool. Cast off loosely.

LEFT SHOULDER SEAM:

1. Use backstitch to sew front to back along left shoulder seam.

ROUND (CREW) FRONT NECK SINGLE BAND COLLAR:

1. Bring out 54 needles to HP. With wrong side of work facing, rehang 22 sts from back neck holder, 10 sts from left front neck edge, 12 sts from front neck holder, and 10 sts from right front neck edge. Hang hem. Push needles to FWP, latches open. Use keyplate 3 with COR.
2. Knit 6 rows. Convert to 1x1 rib. Cast off loosely.

FINISHING:

1. Sew side and sleeve seams using invisible seam. Use backstitch to sew remaining seams.
> 2. Optional. Shoulder button placket.
Leave last 3.0 ins of one shoulder seam open. Make a buttonhole band by picking up sts along the front side, work 1 row K1P1 ribbing, work buttonholes in 0.5 in (1 cm) from either end, then 2 more rows ribbing. Cast off in ribbing. Sew 2 buttons on back shoulder to match buttonholes.
3. Sew in all loose ends.

Pattern designed by: Gina B. Ahrens with KNITWARE DESIGN (Version 2.02)

Do not reproduce this pattern or post to any internet site without express permission from the author.

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